For over a thousand years, pilgrims have journeyed around Japan’s smallest main island, Shikoku, visiting 88 sacred temples linked to the Buddhist monk Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi). Known as the Shikoku Henro, this pilgrimage covers more than 1,200 kilometers of mountains, coastline, cities, and rural villages. Traditionally done on foot, the pilgrimage represents not just a physical challenge but a spiritual journey toward reflection and renewal.
Today, the pilgrimage is more accessible than ever, attracting not only religious practitioners but also hikers, cultural explorers, and curious travelers from around the world. This Shikoku pilgrimage guide offers a modern perspective—combining spiritual depth with practical advice on routes, apps, accommodations, and cultural etiquette.
1. Introduction: History of the 88-Temple Pilgrimage
The Shikoku pilgrimage traces its origins to Kūkai (774–835), a revered monk who founded the Shingon school of Buddhism. Believed to have traveled throughout Shikoku in pursuit of enlightenment, his life and teachings inspired followers to visit temples connected to his legacy.
The pilgrimage is structured around 88 temples, each with its own number, history, and atmosphere. Completing the full circuit is said to bring spiritual merit, offering a path toward understanding life’s impermanence and finding inner peace.
Traditionally, pilgrims wore white robes, straw hats, and carried walking sticks, symbolizing purity and the presence of Kūkai walking beside them. Though most modern travelers dress in everyday clothing, the sense of continuity with centuries of tradition remains powerful.
2. How to Start the Pilgrimage (Routes, Transport)
Starting Points
- Temple 1: Ryōzen-ji (Tokushima Prefecture)
Most pilgrims begin here, following the numerical order of the temples clockwise around the island. - Temple 88: Ōkuboji (Kagawa Prefecture)
Others choose to start at the final temple and work backward, symbolizing a journey of return. - Flexible Starts
Modern travelers often begin at a temple nearest to their entry point—be it Tokushima, Matsuyama, or Kochi.
Pilgrimage Routes
- On Foot (Aruki-henro): The most traditional way, covering 1,200+ km in 40–60 days.
- By Public Transport: Trains, buses, and ferries connect many temples, making shorter pilgrimages possible.
- By Car or Bicycle: Popular with locals and travelers who want to complete the circuit in a few weeks.
Access to Shikoku
- From Osaka/Kyoto: Take a highway bus or train via Okayama and cross the Seto Ohashi Bridge.
- From Tokyo: Flights to Tokushima, Takamatsu, Matsuyama, or Kochi airports.
- From Hiroshima: Ferry connections to Matsuyama.
💡 Tip: Even if you cannot commit to all 88 temples, many pilgrims choose to complete mini-pilgrimages of 20–30 temples in a single prefecture.
3. Modern Tips: Apps, Accommodations, and Luggage Transport
While the pilgrimage is ancient, modern conveniences make it accessible to today’s travelers.
Apps and Navigation
- Google Maps & Maps.me: Essential for finding temple locations and walking routes.
- Shikoku Pilgrimage App (HenroMap): Offers temple details, maps, and accommodation listings.
- HyperDia or Japan Transit Planner: For planning train and bus connections.
Accommodations
Pilgrims traditionally stayed at temples or minshuku (family-run inns). Today, options are wide-ranging:
- Shukubō (Temple Lodgings): Some temples still offer lodging, often with vegetarian meals and morning prayers.
- Ryokan and Minshuku: Traditional inns with tatami rooms and Japanese meals.
- Business Hotels: Found in larger towns, convenient for modern comfort.
- Henro Houses: Budget accommodations run by locals, specifically for pilgrims.
💡 Expect to pay between ¥3,000–¥9,000 per night depending on the type of lodging and whether meals are included.
Luggage Transport
Carrying heavy backpacks can be daunting, but several services now allow you to send luggage ahead:
- Takkyubin (Yamato Transport, Sagawa Express): Ship bags to hotels or ryokan.
- Henro Luggage Services: Some local businesses specialize in helping pilgrims send luggage temple-to-temple.
Essential Gear
- Comfortable walking shoes or boots.
- Rain gear (Shikoku is known for sudden showers).
- Pilgrim items (optional but meaningful): white vest, hat, walking stick, prayer beads.
4. Cultural Etiquette and Traditions
The pilgrimage is more than sightseeing—it’s a deeply spiritual practice. Respecting traditions helps you connect with its essence.
Temple Rituals
At each temple, pilgrims typically:
- Wash hands and mouth at the purification basin.
- Ring the temple bell (if permitted).
- Light incense and candles.
- Offer a prayer at the main hall and Daishi hall.
- Recite sutras (such as the Heart Sutra).
- Stamp your nōkyōchō (stamp book) with the temple’s red seal and calligraphy.
💡 Even if you do not recite sutras, quietly observing rituals is respectful.
Osettai: Gifts of Kindness
Local residents often offer osettai—small gifts such as snacks, drinks, or lodging discounts—to pilgrims. Accept these gestures graciously, as they represent spiritual support for your journey.
Attire and Behavior
- Traditional pilgrim clothing is optional, but wearing at least a white vest (hakui) shows respect.
- Always greet others with “Konnichiwa” or “Otsukaresama desu” when passing on the trail.
- Photography is allowed at most temples, but avoid disrupting rituals.
5. Highlights of the Journey
While all 88 temples carry meaning, several stand out for their beauty, history, or location.
Tokushima Prefecture (Temples 1–23)
- Ryōzen-ji (Temple 1): Traditional starting point of the pilgrimage.
- Konsen-ji (Temple 3): Known for its healing hot spring origins.
- Shōsan-ji (Temple 12): A challenging mountain climb rewarding pilgrims with panoramic views.
Kochi Prefecture (Temples 24–39)
- Known as the “long road of ascetic training” due to long distances between temples.
- Hotsumisaki-ji (Temple 24): Overlooking Cape Muroto with ocean views.
- Kongōfuku-ji (Temple 38): Dramatically set at Cape Ashizuri, Japan’s southernmost Shikoku point.
Ehime Prefecture (Temples 40–65)
- Known as the “road of enlightenment.”
- Ishite-ji (Temple 51): A large complex with tunnels, statues, and historical relics.
- Kōnomine-ji (Temple 61): Nestled in lush mountains.
- Dōgo Onsen: Near Matsuyama, one of Japan’s oldest hot spring baths, beloved by pilgrims for centuries.
Kagawa Prefecture (Temples 66–88)
- Known as the “road of nirvana,” bringing pilgrims toward completion.
- Shido-ji (Temple 86): Rich in maritime legends.
- Ōkuboji (Temple 88): The final temple, where pilgrims traditionally leave their walking sticks, symbolizing journey’s end.
- Ritsurin Garden (Takamatsu): While not part of the official 88, this exquisite garden is a cultural highlight.
6. Conclusion: Walking with Kūkai in the Modern World
The Shikoku pilgrimage is not only a physical journey but also a metaphorical one—an invitation to slow down, reflect, and connect with both tradition and self. Whether you complete all 88 temples on foot or visit a handful by train and car, the essence of the pilgrimage remains: walking with Kūkai and experiencing the kindness of Shikoku’s people.
This Shikoku pilgrimage guide has outlined the history, routes, modern tools, etiquette, and highlights to help you embark with confidence.
Kyushu and Honshu may be busier, but here in Shikoku you’ll find something rare in today’s world: a journey where every step, every temple, and every encounter carries meaning.
So lace up your shoes, pack lightly, and let the spirit of Shikoku lead you—because the pilgrimage is not only about reaching temple 88, but about discovering yourself along the way.
